Making Pork Steak, Trout, and Lamb Shank at Marietta

[Photographs: Clay Williams]

For over a decade, Ben Grossman and Craig Samuel have been offering Brooklyn-style takes on Southern cuisine at their restaurants Smoke Joint, Peaches, and Peaches Hothouse. In that time, they've slung a lot of ribs and fried chicken with good quality ingredients and gotten a fair amount of attention for their efforts. They've enjoyed the success, but, the two classically trained chefs have long craved the opportunity to play with the techniques from their training to create modern dishes with a southern sensibility.

So last year they opened Marietta. Situated in a large space on a corner in Clinton Hill, the menu aspires to more than down-home cooking. From the hamburger served with the option of a chicken and duck liver mousse to red wine-braised oxtails, Charleston risotto, and a selection of "Southern Charcuterie" that features country ham and "brown jam," the food is inspired by the Carolinas but not beholden to it.

I recently spent some time in the kitchen with Marietta's chef, Damian Laverty, to see how he puts together some of the dishes currently on the menu. Take a look at the slideshow to see how he makes caramelized pork steak, lamb shank, and trout.