Untamed Sandwiches recently opened near Bryant Park, where they're specializing in hefty braised meat sandwiches with a selection of beer and wine. If you're braving the snow to get there, you'd be wise to do so for the Hot Goldie ($11), their most popular so far, according to my friendly and swift sandwich maker.
The Hot Goldie consists of a hearty portion of braised, grass-fed beef brisket topped with red onions and sweet and sour cabbage that's stuffed in a toasted Grandaisy Bakery ciabatta roll and smeared with black pepper mayo. Though the brisket was a hair dry for our tastes, it's well seasoned and deeply flavored, and that mayo adds the moisture it needs. We like the sweet and sour cabbage for its acidity but wish it retained more crunch; along with the sparing use of onion, the sandwich could use more crunch.
But the well-toasted ciabatta holds it weighty contents admirably, and just as important, Untamed doesn't skimp on the meat, making this one filling sandwich. We could do with some more toppings, but the sheer size of the sandwich makes for a good, quick lunch.