Go Crazy for Burmese Salad

Burmese Ginger Salad at Crazy Crab 888

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Crazy Crab 888 is a Burmese restaurant in Flushing that also specializes in crab and crawfish boils. Give a moment to let that sink in, but then do follow your assumptions that they do one of these things better than the other.

Of the winning Burmese food, which really is worth a visit to College Point Boulevard, the salads should be at the top of your list to order, particularly this Burmese Ginger Salad (jin thoke, $8.95) full of shredded young ginger, cabbage, fried shallot, garlic, and crunchy fried legumes in a simple but punchy lime dressing. Unlike its mature version, young ginger has a clean, crisp grassiness and only a mild heat, which makes for a full-flavored salad base that takes well to layers of spice, crunch, and acidity—hallmarks of Burmese flavors that show up again and again in several forms throughout your meal.

There are so many fried and roasted crunchy bits here you'd be hard-pressed to call the dish a healthy salad, but some things are too fun to eat to care.