Don't Skip All'onda's Crudo


[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

We'll have more about All'Onda, the upscale self-described "modern Venetian" restaurant soon, but first the essentials: get the magical smoked uni bucatini, but don't skip the crudo either.

All'onda's crudi range from $13 to $18, so the Kampachi at $17 comes in at the high end of the range. But for the price you get a beautifully composed plate of firm, slightly buttery fish, curls of crisp red kuri squash, shavings of lightly pickled peperoncini, and a dressing of soy and olive oil.

It shows off crudo at its best: subtle yet balanced flavors that stay centered on the fish. The squash complements its firm, glassy bite; the chili's light heat and acidity bring its flavor into focus. Underneath, a soy sauce with deep, almost nutty flavors, adds impressive depth, cut just enough by the oil.

Two of us polished it off fast and sopped up the remains with tangy bread. But here's what I really want: a fat bowl of the stuff and some short-grained rice to eat as a meal all on its own. I'll worry about the price later, but for now, take my wallet, All'onda, and make it happen.