Legend's Fried Corn is a Pleasant Surprise


[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Every December 24th I visit Legend in Chelsea for a taste of Jewish Christmas: killer Sichuan and some impressive scallion pancakes. Now I have a new dish to add to the rotation.

It's called Stir Fried Corn with Egg Yolk ($16.95), a far too demure name for what turns out to be a platter-sized mountain of battered and fried corn kernels tossed with small, juicy pieces of similarly fried shrimp. Like the fried mushrooms at La Vie en Szechuan, the egg yolk comes salted, cured, and shaved into a fine powder that coats the kernels for a sweet and salty seasoning that melts into a sauce in your mouth.

Fried corn, fried shrimp, and what's essentially freeze-dried mayo doesn't make for a light bite, which means one hefty platter is enough for a banquet-sized table. But it makes a worthy fried snack to combat the restaurant's spicier, more unruly fare.