Heading Back to Noodle Village for Meat Sauce


[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

We tried not to write about Noodle Village once again, but hey, sometimes you have to give Chinatown's best wonton soup slinger its due. But this time we're not talking about wontons or soup, but rather noodles with a sweet meat sauce poetically called Pork in Hot Spicy Sauce Lo Mein ($6.75).

Thin, flat strands of snappy noodles are topped with a mess of ground pork in a thick, sweet sauce moistened by hoisin. There's little heat or spice, and a little glop that, in a lesser kitchen, would become unappealing cafeteria food. But here the meat sauce takes on a bolognese-like quality, rich enough to coat each noodle well, with bits of vegetable matter lightening up the plate just a bit. Surrounding the noodles is a ring of steamed greens—as good excuse as any to call this a complete meal.