Maison Kayser's Pumpkin is Low on Sugar, High on Pumpkin

Sugar Rush

Your daily dose of something sweet.

Pumpkin eclair from Maison Kayser

[Photographs: Niko Triantafillou]

If you're a regular reader of this column, you've probably noticed that we've featured plenty of pumpkin desserts over the last few weeks. We looked at pumpkin soufflé, pumpkin cheesecake, pumpkin black and white cookies, and even pumpkin ice cream. I hope you're not sick of pumpkin yet, because I've got a few more on the way, starting with today at Maison Kayer.

The Pumpkin Paris Brest ($5.75) is a decidedly non-traditional choux pastry. For one thing, the filling is more of a lightly sweetened pumpkin purée than any kind of pastry cream, whipped cream, or custard. That means the pumpkin flavor is front and center, enhanced by ginger and cinnamon. There's also at least four times as much pumpkin purée as choux pastry, a lopsided ratio for any pastry.

The top of pastry features a layer of crushed almonds and powdered sugar, adding some balancing sweetness to this otherwise restrained dessert.