Shopsins's Mediterranean Mashup Sandwich is an Edible Plea for Peace in the Middle East

A Sandwich a Day

A new sandwich every day.

In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.


[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

There's nothing subtle about the Jihadboy ($17) at Shopsins (name included, which is used here for reference purposes only). But that's what happens when you take fatty braised beef and tart it up with pomegranate molasses, hunks of creamy feta, and tapenade. And then you add toasty pistachios and nutty tahini and serve the whole mess on toasted ciabatta.

Don't even bother eating with your hands—this too-big-to-eat-alone monster is best taken slowly with a fork, as it's really more of a stew on bread than a proper sandwich. It verges on too salty from all the briny cheese and olives, but tahini and pomegranate keep them in check, and somehow, miraculously, the beef's baseline savoriness doesn't get lost in the mix. If there's an edible plea for peace in the Middle East, it's a mashup like this sandwich.