Great Peruvian Roast Chicken at Inti in Hell's Kitchen

[Photographs: Lily Chin]

Inti is a small Peruvian restaurant on the northern end of Hell's Kitchen, and its warm interior and surprisingly good roast chicken make it a solid choice for casual meals in the neighborhood.

Their menu accommodates individual orders as well as larger plates served family-style. The centerpiece of the restaurant, Pollo Inti (roast chicken), runs $5 for a quarter to a mere $12 for the whole bird, and it's a great example of the form: well-seasoned from delightfully moist meat (breast, too!) to crisp skin with well-rendered fat. It comes with several sauce options, including an addictive green sauce, but the chicken's so good it doesn't need any of them.

Another dish worth trying is Ceviche de Corvina ($12). Chunks of Corvina fish, found on the South American Pacific coastline, are marinated in lemon juice, hot peppers, cilantro, and onions. The ceviche is served with both boiled and fried Peruvian choclo corn as well along with sweet potato. The fish is well marinated and rather tart, so only order this dish for dining in, not to go; the heavy acidity may "overcook" the fish by the time it reaches its destination. The corn adds texture and the sweet potato helps cut the acidity; we would have liked even more than the one small slice we received.