The world's dessert-spotlight is currently still trained squarely on Dominique Ansel, who's made quite clear that there's more to his shop than cronuts. So what's next? How about a torched-to-order frozen s'more.
The Frozen S'More ($7) starts with a special marshmallow, which is made by substituting honey for some of the sugar, so it has an unusual shiny texture. It's dense but not springy, almost like an un-baked Italian meringue and very different than the standard Jet-Puffed variety. The marshmallow goo is piped into a stainless steel mold, then, squares of housemade vanilla custard that have been rolled in chocolate feuilletine (chocolate wafer cookie bits) are dropped in and entombed under more marshmallow. The molds are then put in the freezer overnight. The custard recipe is inspired by Turkish dondurma an ice cream characterized by a stretchy, chewy texture.
Finally, each s'more is blowtorched to order on a sturdy wood stick that's been smoked in the bakery using applewood chips so you get the powerful smoky aroma of a campfire. The creme-brulee-like crust that forms on the surface of the s'more after it's torched brings the whole experience together. Wish they had these at my camp. The final dessert is on the sweet side, but for my tastes, I'd get it over a cronut any day.
Grub Street suggested some alternate names to the frozen s'more. I'd like to cast my vote for the "Fro-smo."
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