It's hard to avoid cronut talk in New York these days, but I thought I'd be safe north of the city in Yonkers.
I was wrong.
The theme park grocery store Stew Leonard's is also now in on the cronut game, selling two-packs of Cro-Do's for $3.99. They are not ersatz cronuts—specific differences below—but if you can score them fresh, they're very, very good.
To review, the cronut is laminated pastry (modified croissant dough) cut into rings, fried until the layers separate into sheets, filled with flavored cream, and iced. The Stew Leonard's cro-do is more doughnutty—it assumes the flavor and airy lightness of dougnut more than the crisp butteriness of a croissant. That dough is also sweeter, like a doughnut, but there's no cream filling involved. The two pastries are ideologically similar but worlds apart in execution.
This is a more down-home take on the cronut concept, as if your Aunt Bea, who makes great old fashioned doughnuts, took a pastry course and had a little fun. And it works—beautifully—a yeast doughnut-sized ring that's slightly crunchy on the outside and totally fluffy within. A thin trace of oil slicks your fingers, but you'll be licking too much coarse sugar off your face to care.
One thing: do order your cro-do fresh. The fryer is right behind the cro-do shelf, and if you ask nicely, you should be able to get a warm one that hasn't been packaged yet. Don't waste time—eat this in the parking lot while some cro-do-less sucker loads the car.
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