The orange-scented samali ($5) at Artopolis is everything I love about Greek sweets: strongly flavored with citrus oil or spice, moistened but not killed by sugar syrup, texturally interesting and unusual. The tender but coarse-crumbed semolina cake is steeped in orange-flavored syrup. It's delicate, not overly sweet, and a fitting foil to the bakery's strong Greek coffee.
A lot of the pastry love at Artopolis goes to their phyllo pastries, and justly so, but give this unassuming cake a try. It's an undercover winner.
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