Dessert is my favorite part of meals at Boulud Sud. Sweets by pastry chef Ghaya Oliveira are always whimsical and light, but still confident in flavor. As an example, meet the Grapefruit Givré ($14), a menu classic that starts with a whole grapefruit that's completely hollowed and lined with housemade grapefruit sorbet. It's then filled with a mix fresh grapefruit segments and grapefruit jam and topped with white sesame foam. Above all that goes tiny, glossy cubes of rose lukom (Turkish delight) and halva crumbles. It's then sealed with a caramelized tuile and puffy crown of shredded halva "hair." How do you eat it? Crack the tuile and sink right in!