TGI Fry-Day: Fried Mantou at Pacificana

TGI Fry-Day

Explorations of the frying arts.


[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

These fried buns at Sunset Park's most notable dim sum parlor walk the line between savory and sweet. The mantou themselves are barely sweet, and their crisp shells and fluffy innards are just the thing to sop up that extra sauce from your steamed rice rolls. But be sure to dip at least one in the accompanying dish of sweetened condensed milk, a kind of junk-food-meets-awesome-brunch combination we'd like to see more often.

Sweet and savory courses don't need to be segregated at dim sum; this is the dish to best take advantage of that principle.


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