Freshness is key to any successful éclair ($7), and this classic pâte à choux is baked daily at François Payard Pâtisserie. Delicate and airy, the shell is split down the middle and outfitted in three components. At the bottom, a cool, whipped vanilla mascarpone cream, the richness countered with thick slices of ruby sweet strawberries. It's finished with piped ribbons of vanilla bean-accented pastry cream, full-bodied and unusually rich. There's a light citrus note to the cream that comes in the form of candied lemon peel, and this is one dessert where every element is absolutely essential.