A classic breton sablé serves as the base of La Maison's Tube de l'Ete ($9). It's buttery and snappy with a crunch; crumbs fly everywhere and the heady flavors of vanilla lingers. But then the chocolate takes over, a simultaneously sleek and elegant tube of dark, dense chocolate mousse dipped in even more chocolate for a silky shell. True to tradition, the mousse is the over the top, nearly too rich, and best savored in small bites. In the center runs a thin rope of wild strawberry, cranberry, and hibiscus gelée, tart enough to cause a pause, and bright enough to be refreshing, saving chocolate from its own decadence.