A Sandwich A Day: Poblano Cemita at Cascabel Taqueria

A Sandwich a Day

A new sandwich every day.

In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.


[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Cascabel might have taqueria in its name, but it is now a sandwich shop in our hearts. Like a bulkier, tastier cousin of Mexican Blvd.'s Adobo Torta, the Poblano Cemita ($9.50) is a great sandwich that transcends all stereotypes about gentrified Mexican joints.

This cemita's most valuable player is the reddish-orange pulled pork, which is tomatoey, garlicky (whole cloves? you bet), and well-spiced—as opposed to the one-note-chipotle-in-adobo flavor that is the norm at this kind of restaurant. Even more impressive is the inclusion of several leaves of fresh papalo, an intense herb used in cemitas that could also be named cilantrugula.

Smashed avocado and champagne mango are tough to see through the pork, but they're present and worth the inclusion. For cheese, the sprinkles of oaxaca and queso fresco get lost in the sauce, as does the squirt of aioli. A commercial seeded bun keeps all the ingredients contained and holds up relatively well to the saucy meat. After one bite of this sandwich, pulled pork fans will go wild, as will cemita fans...and really any fan of good food will, too.

Cascabel Taqueria

2799 Broadway (map) New York, NY 212-665-1500

1538 2nd Avenue (map) New York, NY 212-717-8226