[Photograph: Jessie Pascoe]
In its second year, Harold Dieterle's Kin Shop continues to draw accolades for his take on contemporary Thai food. Lauded plates like fried pork and crispy oyster salad ($13) and massaman braised goat ($22) remain popular menu items, but their fried broccoli and Chinese sausage ($13) makes quite the flavor statement of its own.
The secret's in the sauce: the young coconut-gooseberry chutney and fermented plum vinegar provide tangy bursts that cut the grease, while sweet bites of Chinese sausage round out the vegetable bite. To boot, the thin batter and quick fry ensure that the crusty broccoli retains a nice crunch. The only downside to such a knockout sauce generously coating the plate is that a few broccoli tops get mushy. But when you have a sauce this awesome, who cares?
We just pray that the entrepreneurial mind of chef Dieterle veers into retail branding: jarred, this canary-colored chutney—with splashes of plum vinegar—would be the ultimate take-home condiment.
Kin Shop
469 6th Avenue, New York, NY 10011 (map)
212-675-4295
kinshopnyc.com
Comments are closed
HIDE COMMENTS