Scones are like doughnuts—best when warm, and if you can't get them warm...well, then they're not often worth eating. At the St. Regis on 55th Street, the only way to get scones is by ordering the full afternoon tea. It's a splurge at $55, but a worthwhile treat, with dainty tea sandwiches, a selection of teas, petit fours, and two scones a person. One scone is plain; the other comes with raisins. They're baked to order with shiny tops, a little crisp on the outside, and arrive still warm from the oven. Split one in half crosswise—gently, as the interior is plush and flaky—and dab on the devonshire cream (which I suspect might be lightened with the addition of whipped cream), housemade strawberry preserves, and an excellent lemon curd.