A Sunset Park Food Crawl: Beyond the Taco

[Photographs: Max Falkowitz]

Every year or so, we hit up Sunset Park on a crawl in search of transcendence through masa, griddle-cooked meat, and plenty of hot sauce. Usually these crawls are pretty taco-centric, and hey, we love our tacos, but there's a lot more to the neighborhood to love. So when my buddy Vittles Vamp offered to take me on a crawl of the neighborhood—a place which this Queens guy doesn't see often enough—I couldn't hop on the R soon enough, provided we'd get our fill of tortas, sopes, and icy treats along the way.

It's summer time, officially now, and the city's just screaming for some summer food adventures. Sunset Park, here we come. For more than just the tacos.

On the agenda: six stops, a mix of taquerias, bakeries, markets, and disco restaurants, where we'd dig up everything from hangover-curing tortas, crisp-creamy sopes, ceviche, and, yes, tacos.

Shrimp Ceviche

Shrimp ceviche at El Tesoro Ecuatoriano.

The best of the lot? As it turns out, not the tacos, with which we've had a complicated relationship. An Ecuadorian shrimp cocktail ceviche at El Tesoro Ecuatoriano was a crisp, refreshing standout, and a soft, eggy torta at La Flor Bakery with a cup of frothy, freshly squeezed orange juice was the perfect breakfast cure-all. Sopes at Tacos El Bronco are a simple but surprisingly good snack, especially with generous squirts of hot sauce. Okay, and a taco: skip the stiff, stale corn tortillas at Tacos Ricos and hone in on a lamb taco in a flour tortilla.

Of course, this is just a drop in the bucket—there's plenty more Sunset Park ground to cover. Where do you get your fix?

Hit up the slideshow for the full tour »

All the Stops

View Serious Eats Sunset Park Crawl 2012 in a larger map

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