Gallery: Laut: Michelin-Starred Malaysian Restaurant Delivers On Flavor

We wanted the neat squares of egg- and scallion-wrapped flatbread to be a little less soft, though the flavor was spot-on and the steamy innards delicious when dunked in that curry.

Fried squid whose slightly sweet five-spice coating I liked but whose sriracha-flour batter was a bit gummy.

Another classic street vendor dish of wok-fried noodles. This time, they're thin and egg-based, tossed in a similar soy-chili sauce along with bean sprouts, tofu, tomato, and egg.

Rice that was slightly dry but properly suffused with coconut flavor, with all the usual accompaniments: peanuts, fried anchovies (ikan bilis), and the well-cooked, firm shrimp were doused in an incredibly shrimpy sambal that I couldn't get enough of—the funkiest, most powerful flavors of the meal.

Tasty, well-cooked shrimp in a reasonably spicy chili sambal, but they lacked the intense flavor of the shrimp hanging out with the nasi lemak.

Its coconut-based broth wasn't quite as silky as it could be, and the thin egg noodles were a bit overcooked. Laksa's often served with lime on the side; a squirt over this dish would've brightened it up considerably.

The almost crunchy-firm mango (and really, really sticky sticky rice) weren't as good as this dish can be.

Black sticky rice cooked into a pudding with coconut milk, sugar, and pandan leaves.