Lunch Today: Loukaniko at Souvlaki GR

Lunch Today

Lunchtime adventures from the Serious Eats editors.


[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Porchetta this, bacon that—sure, these are good uses for pig. Admirable even. But they don't have my heart. Loukaniko does. This semi-dried sausage from Greece doesn't get a lot of love in the States, but it really should. It's typically flavored with orange peel and leeks, then crisped up and served whole. Like all Greek meats, it has a light citrus lilt to counterbalance the fat, and a complex flavor from seemingly simple spicing: it's bright, onion-y, and a little tangy. Eat it outside with a spritz of lemon and you'll feel like you're in Athens.

The loukaniko ($10) at Souvlaki GR is worthy champion of the loukaniko tradition. Pick your seasoning—orange or leek (we went with the former)—and get ready for a hulking plate of crisp, sliced sausage and plenty of fries. A side of tzatziki for dipping is a must. Take note that loukaniko is supposed to be a little dry and granular, but that just means it's more meaty than fatty. And a little cured meat funky in the best of ways.

Souvlaki GR

116 Stanton Street, New York, NY 10002 (map) 212-777-0116