A Sandwich A Day: Grass Sandwich at Cheeky Sandwiches

A Sandwich a Day

A new sandwich every day.

In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year--so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know.--The Mgmt.


[Photograph: Christine Chung]

Tucked into that little pocket between Chinatown and the Lower East Side, Cheeky Sandwiches is an understated hole in the wall that commands a cult following. Their menu has six sandwiches, a mix of vegetarian options and more carnivorous ones. It's a cinch to become the ultimate fan and try everything they offer.

The oyster/shrimp poboys are the fan favorite; you'll find that they're often sold out. However, there's no reason to leave empty handed, for the rest of the New Orleans-inspired sandwiches far from disappoint.

The grass sandwich ($8) is one of two veggie-friendly options on the menu, and it's good enough to compete with some of the more meaty options. Roasted beets, mashed butternut squash, fried goat cheese, and arugula is served on delicate, light flauto. The bread has just the right amount of crust to not overwhelm the rest of the sandwich, important for one built on simple ingredients.

The creaminess of the butternut squash and the fried goat cheese (fried!) is a delightful combination, nicely cut by the roasted beets. However, the squash is a bit heavy on the honey, making it a somewhat of a sugar bomb, so much so that the beets can't quite cut through it. While some bites are well-balanced, and deliciously so, there were times where I wanted to scrape off the excess butternut squash.

Overall, the ingredients pair well together, and if I'm completely honest, aesthetically, the sandwich is pretty damn good looking. It's a riot of color that's almost as appetizing as it looks.

Cheeky Sandwiches

35 Orchard Street, New York NY 10002 (map) 646-504-8132