The Ukrainian Meatball Hero ($12.50) is one of the four signature sandwiches at Veselka, and for good reason. That's not a classic baguette you're looking at—it's challah (for real!) rolled into the shape of a baguette, then baked and split open. The soft, eggy loaf is topped with four sizable meatballs, a scattering of sauerkraut and, the final touch, a generous ladle of mushroom gravy. The best is when gravy oozes out the side and onto the pile of fries (your pick: regular or sweet potato), so decadent and so right. It's a monster of a sandwich, a true fork and knife affair where the magic is not so much in the individual ingredients, but the combination of them all, served hot. Don't even try eating this with your hands.
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