Sugar Rush: Ekmek Kataifi at Village Taverna

[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

It's not the most attractive of desserts, especially with that candy red cherry on top. But push aside appearances, and this Ekmek Kataifi at the relatively new Village Taverna is surprisingly good. A square based of honey syrup-soaked kataifi comes topped with a pudding-like vanilla custard and mounds of whipped cream with slivered almonds. Pluck off the cherry and dive right in. Every component is absolutely necessary to balance out this Greek dessert. The sweet custard is rich in eggs, and you can clearly make out the distinct notes of semolina. The katafi is a bit soggy, if you're looking to criticize, but there's aren't many places in downtown Manhattan where one can score a Ekmek Kataifi on a whim.

Village Taverna

81 University Place, New York, NY 10003 (map) 212-982-3457
villagetaverna.com

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