Oysters Kilpatrick ($20/6)
"My nod to back home," Rendell says of the Australian classic. The mild brininess of the oyster (here, Fanny Bay oysters from Washington State) mingles with the Worcestershire dressing, a salty slick before the plump, firm oyster and the substantial bite of smoked bacon at the end.
Pressed Duck ($12)
A pressed duck terrine crowned with a single slim strip of crackling, whisper-thin, uniformly crisp, and dissolving on the tongue. Cornichons and a plump-grained housemade mustard come alongside.
No. 1 ($9)
Why the numbers? "It goes with the stripped-down aesthetic of the place," says McCarthy; "no, not really. I don't name the cocktails, I just make them." He privately refers to this one as the Tea and Biscuits: Assam leaf-infused vodka with orange marmelade, honey, lemon, and just a little milk, the flavor dominated by the natural partners of citrus and tea; it's topped with a slim crumbly biscuit made by pastry chef Ryan Butler.
No. 4 ($12)
Plymouth gin with lemon, fresh muddled ginger, and orange bitters, the dual bites of gin and ginger really coming through, the yellow chartreuse in the background. "This has been one of the most popular," says McCarthy; "We'd barely opened before I went through two bottles of chartreuse."
Crispy Shrimp "Cocktail" ($13)
Shell-on shrimp, in a light coating of salt and flour, fried and served with Mary Rose dressing. Natural bar-snacking fare, as are the crunchy-shelled mushy pea fritters ($5).
Pork chop ($24)
About as suited to the season as a dish could be, the grilled pork chop is topped with a roasted apple-thyme butter with a full-flavored cider sauce that's poured over top tableside. Lightly dressed baby gem lettuce and golden rosemary potatoes come with.
McCarthy's more refreshing cocktails aren't overly sweet, but a bit more fruit-forward; this one has fig jam, Rothman and Winter apricot liqueur, lemon, and No. 3 London City Gin, with a splash of sparkling rosé. "I can imagine a tableful of girls putting back a pitcher of these."
No. 7 ($10)
Flor de Cana 7-year aged rum ("The 7-year is by far my favorite Flor de Cana"), with carpano antica; St. Elizabeth allspice dram and freshly grated nutmeg add warming winter spice notes to the rum's dark sweetness.
Honeycrisp Apple Charlotte ($8)
Ryan Butler's desserts appear almost delicate on the plate, reasonably portioned and artfully presented. Here, it's an Apple Charlotte with still slightly firm honeycrisp apples inside, with cinnamon custard, salted caramel ice cream, and darkly caramelized candied pecans.
Citrus Tart ($8)
A trio of orange, lemon, and yuzu constitute the citrus, with an almond pastry crust; poppyseed meringues and torched soft marshmallow-like ones top it off.