Lunch Today: Tacos at Brooklyn Taco, Essex Street Market

Lunch Today

Lunchtime adventures from the Serious Eats editors.


[Photo: Jessica Leibowitz]

The good news about newly opened Brooklyn Taco: the fillings are really good. Chilorio Brisket is shredded brisket braised for four hours in a smoky, spicy sauce. Cola and Orange Braised Pork Shoulder is perfectly moist, tender, and flavorful, though it would be nice if it had a bit more crispness to the edges. The citrus-cilantro salsa is neon green and tasty, with some genuine heat. Lightly Chipotle'd Chicken is about as good as chicken can be on a taco, which is to say, not that great, but hey, it's chicken, what do you expect?

Now the bad news: The problem with Brooklyn Taco which is frankly a theme in NYC, is poor tortilla prep. It's fine to use store-bought tortillas, but you've got to reheat them properly. These were steamy, yet stale, with not a hint of color on them. It's like being served perfect meatballs on an underbaked sub roll. The ratio of meat to filling was low as well; a few tablespoons of meat inside a vast expanse of steamed tortilla.

Brooklyn Taco: you're doing good. Just give us a bit more filling and let the tortillas cook just a bit longer!

Brooklyn Taco

Essex Street Market 120 Essex Street, New York NY 10002 (map)