Lunch Today: Noodle Village

Lunch Today

Lunchtime adventures from the Serious Eats editors.


[Photo: Alice Gao]

The many options near the SE office can be overwhelming, as can the pressure to try something new. So when you're hungry, it can be hard to make a decision. That was when Carey asked me if I'd be interested in eating Noodle Village's Duet Noodle Soup ($5.75), which she'd heard about through Tia Kim of Bionic Bites. My prayers were answered. I accepted.

The soup starts with a salty, fishy-porky broth. If you order delivery, Noodle Village will pack this separately, to keep from overcooking the thin ribbons of egg noodles and shrimp wontons, and to keep the crispy fish skin from going soggy, which would be a tragedy. While the wontons weren't the most exciting part--whole tiny shrimp in a thin wrapper--the crispy fish skin was a revelation: not really fishy as much as salty and crunchy, almost like a fish crouton. It's the star of the show here, retaining its crunch for a while once it hits the broth, and it makes this one of the more memorable soup noodle dishes I've had in Chinatown.

Noodle Village

13 Mott Street, New York, NY 10013 (map) (212) 233-0788