In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
Just a few months old, in the strange corner of Park Slope tucked up by Atlantic Yards, Kulushkät is a very small store serving some very fine falafel. Neither of the co-owners, Yagil Kadosh and Andrew Rowley, had any experience in the food service industry, but once they hit upon the idea of opening a shop, they didn't just go the DIY route—they spent two months in Israel learning the falafel craft from Kadosh's mother (and eating as widely as they could).
That diligence shows in the classic falafel sandwich ($5.50), for which, on my visit, they shaped and then fried each crisp little ball to order. The falafel is formed the way I like it—a little rough, not too dense, loosely packed, with a distinct and deeply browned crust; it's well-seasoned and definitely garlicky, lively with cumin and paprika and herbs. What's more, it's joined in the thick, fluffy pita (fresh daily from Jeruselum Pita) by quite a bit: crisp red cabbage salad, creamy hummus, plenty of tahini, and a slender slice of garlicky, tart marinated eggplant. It's all layered smartly, no veggie-only bites at the bottom. Some places serve great falafel in an only decent sandwich, or decent falafel in an otherwise great sandwich; Kulushkät does both parts just right.
446C Dean Street, Brooklyn NY 11217 (map) 347-799-1972
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