At Ciano, do yourself a favor and finish on pastry chef Bjorn Boettcher's "Tiramisu" Coffee Semifreddo. As we've seen with his white asparagus gelato, the desserts at Ciano are all at once elegant and playful. The cocoa-dusted log of semifreddo is rich with mascarpone, the coffee element delicate. All the classic flavors of a tiramisu are present in this creamy confection. It's accompanied by an espresso bianco gelato, so named because of the color. Milk and cream is infused with roasted espresso beans and then strained to create the gelato. The milk and cream only absorb the flavor and not color of the espresso beans, hence the name. Served on a bed of coffee feuilletine and completed with glossy cubes of boozy amaretto gelee, it's a creative departure from your ordinary tiramisu.