At both branches of Terroir, Marco Canora's food is clearly the work of a very serious cook using the best ingredients; still, Canora has always had a fondness for hearty populist foods like sandwiches, soups, and sausage, and sometimes his fried or otherwise gut-pleasing foods are the best. His addictive Beet Risotto Balls with Gorgonzola ($7) are simultaneously tangy and gooey (that'd be the cheese), crunchy and salty (from an excellent fry), and genuinely beet-y; texture-wise, they've got an amazing outside shell and a molten, oozy core. Beet and cheese may be an old combination, but it's hard to imagine it more fun than served here.
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