If you don't live near Red Hook and you don't find yourself at IKEA too often, you may find the food trucks at the Red Hook Ball Fields well out of your way. But luckily, Solber Pupusas, one of the more renowned Red Hook Trucks, frequents a much more accessible (and warmer) locale: the Brooklyn Flea. So if you want the experience of a Red Hook food cart—without the trek—stop by on weekends to satisfy your quest for legitimacy (and your hunger, too).
The sampler platter, an even ten dollars, gets you a plate piled high with pretty much one of everything. The maduros, ripe, fried plantains, had obviously been top-notch right around lunchtime; they had been sitting a little while when I came at 4:00 pm, but had been nicely caramelized with evident plantain know-how. The chorizo sausage was another solid choice—appropriately fatty and flavorful with a slight degree of heat. The chicken tamale was better. Though obviously not Solber Pupusa's specialty (they encase the tamales in tin foil instead of corn husks and the masa-filling ratio was a little heavy on the masa), this tamale was still very tasty, with moist, well-seasoned chicken and what at least tasted like honest-to-goodness homemade masa.
If this were a competition, however, the pork, cheese, and jalapeno pupusa would definitely win. Ideally doughy and just slightly blistered, the thick pupusa base gave way salty queso blanco, pickled jalapenos (seriously, what can ever be wrong with pickled jalapenos?) and mild, well-spiced pulled pork. It's nice when a cart you've been waiting and waiting to visit actually lives up to your expectations.
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