This plate of Bacon and Mozzarella Fries ($7) is big enough to be a lunch. And why not—it's a complete meal (balanced, right?) with crisp pan-fried bacon tangled into the skin-on fries. The mozzarella is melted over the top like a gooey cheese blanket, a protective cover to keep everything hot. Mushroom gravy, meaty and thick, comes on the side. You can either dip each fry into the gravy or pour it over the plate with abandon. I prefer the latter—the fries are already such an indulgent affair, might as give in! There's a mix of fries in the plate, lots of wide, flat cut pieces that are extra crunchy and other classic rectangle cuts with fluffy insides and well-salted, browned exteriors. You could say they're inconsistent with the cut, but I'm a fan of the resulting plate.
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