At Osteria Morini, a quenelle of pure white mascarpone cream finishes off the Pear Tart ($11) on the dessert menu. It's not just any old pear tart, mind you. Here the pear is first poached in red wine and nestled tight in a cocoon of hazelnut frangipane, buttery and intensely nutty. It's served warm in a crisp, thin tart shell. Your choice: let the mascarpone melt over the tart, or spoon up the cream first? I can never decide; so it's best to ask for extra mascarpone cream on the side.
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