Lunch for One: M. Wells

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[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

It's possible to feast well on foie gras, escargot, and bone marrow for less than $20. Here's how. Take the 7 train to M. Wells for lunch. Best to go early or go late. There will be a wait no matter when you go, though off-hours shorten that wait considerably. Foie Gras alone is not listed on the menu. But request it as a "side" dish and out come two beautiful pieces, gently seared. The crisp hunks are supported by a warm and thick slice of toast that meets at the butteriest intersection of brioche and a pullman loaf, indulgent enough on its own—even before the foie. Drizzles of scallion oil finish it off. Heavenly, and just $10.

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Next, Escargots and Bone Marrow ($9). Precisely six plump and garlic-laced escargots are playfully tucked into the halved bone. The marrow is first scooped out to make room for the escargots. Then the inch-long cuts of wobbly, fatty marrow are layered on top, finished with a bare bread crumb topping, shallots and red wine puree. Pick up the cracker-thin toast and smother on the bone marrow, top with an escargot, and slice off a piece of foie gras from the previous dish. A bite of all things glorious, fatty, and savory. You may be clutching for your heart after lunch—that's why you need a glass of house lemonade for relief, one confidently tart concoction that gets the job done.

M. Wells

21-17 49th Avenue, Queens NY 11101 (map) 718-425-6917