What adds to the anticipation of getting pastry chef Zac Young's Flex Donuts is watching him hold a large pastry bag and inject small, round doughnuts with filling. Young, who is executive pastry chef at Flex Mussels and a former contestant of Top Chef Just Desserts, is selling his doughnuts ($1.50) for two weeks in the takeout section of Zocalo in the Lowel Level Dining Concourse at Grand Central Terminal. Young offers five flavors: salted cajeta (caramelized goat's milk), lime, raspberry, spiced chocolate, and cinnamon sugar.
We tasted all five doughnuts, the best of which was the salted cajeta. The caramelized goat's milk filling left me with a pleasant aftertaste of "goatiness" that didn't overshadow the richness of the caramel flavor. The raspberry was balanced in its sweet-tart ratio; that balance wasn't quite there with the face-puckering lime, which only those who love very tart fillings should try. The spiced chocolate didn't have much of a kick to it; or maybe the reasonably dense doughnut body nixed any sort of heat the filling had.
If you prefer plain yeast doughnuts, then get the cinnamon sugar. But I would pick up a Flex with filling—those fillings steal the show.
Open noon to 6 p.m. (or until doughnuts run out) Mondays through Fridays, through February 4th.
At Zocalo, Lower Level Dining Concourse, Grand Central Terminal map 212-687-5666
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