The description alone sounds impossible to resist: parmesan biscuits, sausage gravy, and poached eggs ($14). And in fact, the dish is quite good. What's not to like, after all? Just barely gooey under a generous heaping of creamy, piquant gravy, the otherwise flaky biscuits are nothing if not cheesy—a near-perfect base to begin with. The sauce itself is generously speckled with tiny cubes of spicy Italian sausage, its peppery kick keeping the potential saltiness at bay. On top, two perfectly poached eggs split with the slightest application of pressure, yielding a slow but steady ooze that's just as rich as everything beneath it.
A side salad would be a welcome palate cleanser, but it would be difficult to pass on L'Artusi's morning pastry basket ($12), which easily feeds four. It's filled with all sorts of sweet and savory breads: buttered toast, apple cinnamon muffins, raisin scones, "hearty bread" speckled with pumpkin seeds, and a lusciously light sour cream chocolate cake. But be warned: the pastry and biscuits combo is not for the weak of appetite.
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