Having a particular soft spot for $5 hand-pulled noodles at various Chinatown joints, I was skeptical of Hung Ry on Bond Street—where bowls of hand-pulled noodles start at a pricey $11. But I'll spare you the suspense: these dishes are worth it. Not for the noodles alone, which are not significantly better than ones in Chinatown, but for the quality topping combinations, in addition to a rich and complex broth.
The noodles are hand pulled to order—you'll want a seat at the bar for the best view. (A show and a meal, all in one!) Choose between thick or thin noodles, I prefer mine thick, as the thin noodles turn soft too quickly. There are eight types of noodle soups on the menu; the sole vegetarian option is made with a squash broth. My favorite one here is the heartiest, and perhaps, heaviest, of them all.
Veal cheek, marrow, and liver all make an appearance in the same bowl, with crunchy paper-thin shavings of Japanese sweet potato and quince. It's heaven for offal lovers, slippery and effortless mouthfuls of bone marrow alongside precisely six slices of veal cheeks, the meaty, unctuous quality made all the more rich with buttery cuts of liver. The servings don't look particularly large, but you'll be satiated after this dish. A serving of hot tea, from a small but well edited selection by Art of Tea, makes an ideal finish to the meal. Desserts aren't a strong point at Hung Ry, but housemade sorbets, with a rotation of flavors including Concord grape, are another clean finish.
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