Gallery: Riverpark: Tom Colicchio Presents Sisha Ortuzar

Salt cod croquettes
Salt cod croquettes

Crispy on the outside, light and fluffy on the inside, served with a zesty lemon puree and a little parsley.

The Burger, Whole
The Burger, Whole

I have no idea where it ranks on the chef burger soapbox derby competition, but it is one fine burger.

... and the cross-section.
... and the cross-section.
Grilled cheese and soup
Grilled cheese and soup

The cheese is an oozy aged (but not ancient) New York state cheddar, and in every bite you'll also find a small chunk of cornichon, which Ortazar says is a nod to English pub food. Instead of tomato soup to dip your grilled cheese in, you get a smooth and slightly sweet butternut squash-apple soup.

Lasagna
Lasagna

It's a huge portion (it could probably feed three hungry adults more than adequately), and it's made with a traditional bolognese, a layer of bechamel, and tomato sauce.

Burnt fettucine with cauliflower, Pecorino Romano, and bread crumbs
Burnt fettucine with cauliflower, Pecorino Romano, and bread crumbs

Made with flour that's been toasted in the oven, this was a surprising delight, a combination of char and crunch and tanginess (chef de cuisine Brad Hunt likened it to a coal-fired pizza crust).

Lamb ragu
Lamb ragu

An option on the $28 lunch prix fixe menu, it was a much more successful and interesting dish because of the smoked olives and yogurt mixed into the sauce.

Fresh sturgeon
Fresh sturgeon

Ortuzar pairs it with sunchokes, radicchio, fig, red wine, and pistachios. The sturgeon was perfectly cooked, and the bitter radicchio was balanced out by the sweetness of the figs.

Pork chop
Pork chop

A perfectly cooked medium-rare pork chop was accompanied by a brussels-sprout apple hash and silky parnsip puree.

Beignets
Beignets

Perfect beignets come with two dipping sauces, a lovely vanilla custard and a less successful cranberry compote. Cranberries were actually put to much better use with a smooth, tart cranberry sorbet.

Ice cream
Ice cream

The insanely creamy and full-flavored malt ice cream is one of the best ice creams I have tasted this year, but I am pre-disposed to love anything malt-flavored.

Lemon meringue mini-pie
Lemon meringue mini-pie

With an intriguing scoop of citrus mostarda ice cream.

20101109review-primary.jpg
20101109review-primary.jpg