The Brunch Dish: Eggs Popeye at Popover Cafe

The Brunch Dish

Brunch menus to do your weekend right.

20100922popover.jpg

[Photo: Nikki Goldstein]

My gut tells me that if Popover Café had to post their calorie counts, nobody would be eating there. But my stomach tells me that it's okay—every now and then. The namesake treat was recently introduced in a mini-size served with strawberry butter, each popover the size of a tennis ball and four to an order: the perfect starter to share. They're airy and mostly hollow, a bit of light, doughy goodness pulling from each side of the crusty exterior. But the full-sized ones--each easily the size of your head--are best reserved as vehicles for main courses, such as the Eggs Popeye.

20100922minipopovers.jpg

Here, a popover is cut lengthwise and stuffed to the brim with creamed spinach, slices of smoked salmon, poached eggs and hollandaise--butter layered with cream and yolk and more cream. Half is more than enough for one (even a terribly hungry one), making $15.25 a more reasonable price for what could really be two complete meals. The salmon doesn't get lost in the shuffle, acting as a nice counterpoint to all the even richer fare on the plate. The spinach, on the other hand, had a slightly grainy texture, and the hollandaise may have just been overkill. But it's all stuffed into a massive, sturdy popover that absorbs all the delicious excess. Don't think twice about taking the rest to go.

Popover Cafe

551 Amsterdam Avenue, New York NY 10024 (map) 212-595-8555
www.popovercafe.com