As much as I complain about the heat, I still return for the Pastitsio ($16) at Pylos during the hottest of summer months. Comfort food at its best, the dish is served on a plate with a sprig of rosemary and a single roasted tomato, simple and to the point. It is a gorgeous, hearty and well-spiced casserole about the size of a softball—a tall tower of pasta and meat sauce; tomato, allspice and cinnamon-kissed.
It alternates between pasta and meat, pasta and meat, covered with buttery, yolk-rich béchamel and a handful of bread crumbs—baked until the top is all golden and slightly crunchy. In an ideal world, though I'm not complaining, they would cut down the portion size by half and throw in a small side salad. It would lighten things up a good deal and save me from feeling like an absolute glutton post-lunch. (Portion control isn't a strength of mine.)
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