Week in Reviews: Best Bites

  • Tanoreen in Bay Ridge excels in meze, including "ethereal hummus" and "a napoleon of eggplant, fried soft and sweet." [Sifton; NYT]
  • Wright at the Guggenheim is an "aesthetically pleasing place to eat," with "pricey, ornate grub"; among the better dishes, a "beautifully textured parsnip soup" and "a small, pleasingly dense dark-chocolate soufflé." [Platt; NYM]
  • The food at Maialino is "usually delicious, occasionally spectacular," with "daydream-worthy" pastas. [Lyon; New Yorker]
  • After "a weekend in Baltimore re-familiarizing [himself] with the local chow before diving into Choptank," Sietsema finds himself impressed, writing that "the generosity of the crabcake and its clean, fresh flavor were remarkable." [Sietsema; VV]
  • Cuozzo also visits Choptank, where "authenticity isn't the point; value for the money is." [Cuozzo; NYP]
  • At Tabla, chef Floyd Cardoz "seems to have been born with the palate equivalent of perfect pitch," creating "a high-low pairing that, like jeans and pearls, actually works." [Cheshes; TONY]