Week In Reviews: Best Bites

  • "Nursery food with colonial accents" sums up Sifton's take on the London import Le Caprice [Sifton; NYT]
  • The Breslin Bar & Dining Room "is worth the indulgence," writes Platt, though noting the "unrelenting accumulation of richness can have a numbing effect." [Platt; NYM]
  • Soho's Piccola Cucina "has a tendency to be hit or miss"; "judging doneness seems to be an issue in this kitchen." [Thompson; New Yorker]
  • At Katsuhama 55 in Midtown, "pristine and humongous pork cutlets remain the center of attention, and you'd be crazy to eat at Katsuhama without copping one." [Sietsema; VV]
  • Casa Lever "features the food of Milan," thus is "required by tradition to serve the two dullest dishes of Italy." [Richman; GQ]
  • Maialino "sets a new standard within [the] narrow niche" of Roman fare," with "exceptional facsimiles of... carbonara, braised tripe and suckling pig, among others." [Cheshes; TONY]