"Occhio di bue," the Italian approximation of sunny-side up—literally, "eye of an ox." Get a single occhio on this long, flat breakfast pizza ($11), or, if you're feeling particularly indulgent, a pair of just-set eggs atop curls of fatty pancetta, a blanket of fresh, sharp Pecorino, and ample fruity olive oil. The grilled crust is done right, thin and well-charred but nicely chewy, with a good bit of lift.
My ideal breakfast pizza is still the sloppy, fatty pizza al' uovo from Motorino—there's no pizza in New York that tops that crust. But it's only on the brunch menu, a weekends-only event. Note to Motorino: the day you start serving breakfast is the day I'll be first in line.
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