Brunch Ambivalence: Pumpkin Pancakes At The Breslin

[Photo: Carey Jones]

I haven't been able to stop thinking about these pumpkin pancakes ($14) at The Breslin, so strong is my ambivalence toward them. Wherefore the internal conflict?

Pro: "Pumpkin pancakes with spiced chili pecan butter." How good do those sound? And the pancakes themselves are griddled, amply buttered, with beautifully browned edges.
Con: The pancakes don't taste like pumpkin; the butter doesn't taste spicy.

Pro: The rich candied pecans perched on top.
Con: That orange. Our waitress called it a pumpkin sauce, but seemed unsure; we have our doubts. It reminded Erin of Doritos. It reminded me of red bell pepper, and I wondered whether it wasn't a very muted chili. Either way—fascinating, confusing, but not necessarily appealing.

Pro: The reasonable portion size—an order of restaurant pancakes that I might actually finish. Three little cakes, the diameter of a diner coffee cup, say, and thin as a slip.
Con: Wait—I paid $14 for this?

The Verdict: Give 'em a shot—but only if someone else is picking up the bill.

The Breslin

20 West 29th Street, New York NY 10001 (map) 212-685-9600
thebreslin.com