Week in Reviews: Best Bites

Salad at West Branch. Photograph by Robyn Lee

  • "What’s better than a plate of pillowy gnocchi on a cold winter night? They’re covered in braised veal breast and ricotta salata. Steak tartare is silky and tastes of fresh olive oil," at West Branch [Sutton; Bloomberg]
  • At Double Crown "the perfume of star anise, garlic, ginger and cilantro that rose from a steel crock of “twice-cooked chicken” was heady, even elegant, and the chicken, poached and then fried, had a nicely brittle, salty skin." [Bruni; NYT]
  • At Braeburn "the 'smoked local brook trout' ($10) arrives accompanied by apple purée flavored with horseradish, and the lightly breaded skate ($24) fans out on a bed of Swiss chard awash in a Fuji apple jus" [Sietsema; VV]
  • "Bay scallops as sweet as gumdrops anchor an abstract masterpiece featuring wisps of radish, shaved marcona almonds and the freshest Santa Barbara sea urchin—served raw and also folded with whipped cream to form a delicate sauce," at Paul Liebrandt's Corton [Cheshes; TONY]
  • The steak tartare and the vegetables are two of the only good things at Center Cut [Richman; GQ]
  • "One of the best dishes on the menu [at Mr. Jones] is the tori tatsuta age — Japanese for tempura-battered chicken wings with daikon sauce" [Restaurant Girl; NYDN]