Serious eaters descended on Momofuku Noodle Bar last night to sample the offal offerings of nose to tail dining pioneer Fergus Henderson. Hot on the trotters of his reported command performance at The Spotted Pig on Sunday night, Henderson, aided and abetted by Momofuku kingpin David Chang and his brigade, turned out an inventive and challenging ten item menu laced with all manner of esoteric fare. Chitterlings, lamb brains, pig tails, cheeks and trotters all graced the menu to the delight of the droves of NYC foodies who started to line up well in advance of the 5 p.m. opening.
I was able to get to Momofuku Noodle Bar early enough to make the first seating. I went alone and was fortunate that I was seated next to Ed O. I had never met Ed before but when we were seated together, and I realized that he was also going solo, I immediately asked him if he would like to share a few dishes. "I was about to ask you the same thing" he chortled in reply. Great minds think alike. Of course so do the criminally glutenous and we proceeded to order virtually the whole Fergus Henderson menu. It turns out Ed has a refined palate and a genuine appreciation for food. We ate our way, quite literally, from one end of the pig to the other, with a few other animals thrown in for good measure.
Here is what we ate:
Tender ribbons of grilled chitterlings had a surprisingly tangy flavor.
Lambs brain came battered and deep fried to a golden crisp. The green sauce, infused with parsley and dill, complimented the earthy, creamy nuggets. They were out of this dish by 7:30 p.m.
The crispy pig tails were perhaps the one disappointment in an otherwise wonderful menu. The flavor of the meat was excellent—deep and satisfying—but the breading was far too dense and undercooked. Although others in attendance (like our own Zach Brooks) seemed to love it, so perhaps I just had an off piece.
Confit of pig cheek and dandelion.
Deep fried rabbit.
My favorite dish was the roasted marrow bones with parsley salad, it is a staple of Henderson's St John Restaurant in London, UK.
Warm pigs head and bean salad.
Snail, trotter, sausage and chickpeas. Perfectly poached snails and al dente chickpeas in a hearty trotter infused broth.
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