I have had my share of great steaks in the last few years; Peter Luger's one long, lazy afternoon last winter with our friends Arietta and Sam; a dry-aged piece of Wagyu beef from Lobel's that our beagle almost stole off a platter; and a piece of obscenely rich and marbled Kobe beef at Craftsteak that Steingarten and I fought over. I remember each of those steaks like I had eaten them yesterday. That's why I recognized those same rapturous feelings when I dug into my 35 day dry-aged Kansas City-cut Sirloin at Primehouse New York. The first bite was filled with incredibly satisfying salty, minerally, concentrated beef flavor, and each succeeding bite proved the first was no fluke. This steak was so good I could have skipped the trio of almost great side dishes I tried. The truffled french fries, sprinkled with Asiago cheese, were delicious dark brown lincoln logs that stood at attention in their serving dish, though crispy they were not. The brussels sprouts with bacon proved once again the power of bacon, though the brussels sprouts themselves would have benefited from some high heat roasting. The mac and cheese served in its own cast iron dish had lots of the crunchy bits on top I love so much, but it could have used a bit more tang. The freshly fried fill-your-own doughnut holes served for dessert came with do it yourself plastic injection squeeze bottles of strawberry, chocolate, and butterscotch sauce. Gimmicky, yes. Satisfying, yes indeed.
I have no idea if the rest of the food at Prime Steakhouse is as good as what I described above. I am pretty confident that if you do order what I did, and you love steakhouse fare, you will be one satisfied carnivore.
Primehouse New York 381 Park Ave. South (27th St.) New York, NY 10016 Ph: 212-824-2600