Frank Bruni reviews Alto and L'Impero this morning, and concludes that new chef Michael White is doing consistently better work at Alto. I always liked L'Impero when Scot Conant was cooking there, and I have to admit I never had a full meal at Alto, but based on Bruni's review I will go shortly. I really liked Michael White's cooking when he was at Fiamma, and this game of Italian chef musical chairs is getting even more interesting with Fabio Trabocchi's arrival at Fiamma. One assumes Bruni and Adam Platt will be weighing in on the new Fiamma any week now. I had one meal there that I admired more than loved, but it was early on, and I plan on returning again before rendering a judgment. I did have one killer dish at the new Fiamma, a spaghetti with sardines, pine nuts, and bread crumbs that indicated that Trabocchi is capable of cooking with heart and soul when he wants to.
Address: 206 Spring Street, New York NY 10012 (near Sullivan; map)
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