Peter Meehan has a pitch-perfect review in the NYT of the new Shopsin's. Peter succinctly captures the idiosyncratic (sometimes lovable, other times confounding and persnickety) nature of Kenny himself and his place (Shopsin's is much more Kenny's place and home rather than a restaurant open to the public (which it sort of is but only if you are Shopsin-approved). Serious Eats' James Felder covered the last brunch served at the old (but not the oldest) Shopsin's in poetic fashion.
If you've never been to any incarnation of Shopsin's you owe it to yourself to pay Kenny a visit. You'll either love it or hate it, and that's just the way Kenny Shopsin likes it. Follow Meehan's advice. Get the sliders, which have liberal amounts of grilled onions on and in them, or the banana-chocolate-chip pancakes, which are as much dessert as breakfast. Kenny may have a rule against ordering them for dessert. I'm not sure. And if you don't want sliders or pancakes, there are still a couple of hundred other dishes to choose from. I myself plan on paying Kenny a visit, though he may not be happy that I wrote something about him (Kenny professes to hate publicity. I think he kind of likes it, but doesn't want to admit it.)
Shopsin's General Store Stall 16 in the Essex Street Market 120 Essex Street No phone
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